- The City of the Aqueduct is one of the top inland tourist destinations, thanks both to its monuments and its cuisine. Óscar Hernando — chef, sommelier and winemaker — has successfully transformed a restaurant with over half a century of history into a leading establishment where traditional Segovian cuisine, seasonal produce, an extraordinary selection of wines and a constantly evolving menu come together.
- Casa Silvano Maracaibo is one of those must-visit spots for those seeking something special; it’s where chefs head when they’re in Segovia. This season, you must try classics such as the sardine tartare with basil ice cream, the suckling lamb burgers with roast jus and Pedrajas pine nuts, incredible rice dishes such as those with velvet crabs, free-range chicken or quail; or some brand-new marinated dishes that are well worth discovering.
Some cities are worth a visit for their heritage. Others, for their cuisine. And some, like Segovia, combine both reasons in a single getaway. Suckling pig is a good excuse, but not the only one to answer its call. Casa Silvano Maracaibo (Paseo Ezequiel González, 25, Segovia. Tel. 921 461 545.) has been one of the city’s leading establishments for over five decades – a restaurant where tradition, quality produce and creativity blend seamlessly to offer an experience that goes far beyond the dining table. This excellence has earned them consistent recognition from the country’s leading guides; amongst other accolades, they have held a ‘Sol’ from the Repsol Guide for over 25 years and are recommended by the Michelin Guide. It is no surprise, then, that many prestigious chefs drop in to enjoy their cuisine when they take a break.
At the helm of the venture is Óscar Hernando, the second generation of a family dedicated to the hospitality industry. A chef, sommelier and winemaker, he has successfully taken up his parents’ legacy and developed it into a contemporary cuisine that maintains an unwavering respect for tradition and locally sourced produce. His culinary philosophy is based on a simple principle: letting the raw ingredients take centre stage. Seasonal ingredients, vegetables from his own vegetable patch, local mushrooms and fungi, Segovian truffles and a carefully selected range of wild fish make up a constantly evolving menu, where each season finds its finest expression.
Classics and new dishes
Óscar Hernando’s consistently excellent cuisine has been winning over diners for many years. Among his must-try dishes are the roast lamb and his crispy pork ear crisps; and, now in season and particularly tempting in the heat, the courgette and salted trout salad, the sardine tartare with basil ice cream, the lightly salted bonito with pickled vegetable cream, the Tiradito of Morucha veal tongue, the Russian salad with sea urchin caviar, and a selection of marinated dishes launched at the start of August, including Morrillo with an emulsion of its own marinade, Marinated quail and Marinated mussels with codium seaweed.
And if there’s one thing you fancy in summer, it’s rice dishes; here, particularly the fish-based ones, they taste practically however the customer fancies, because they’re made to order. They might be with baby squid and prawns; they make a spectacular brothy crab rice…; and for ‘land-based’ options, the free-range chicken or quail dishes will have you reaching for bread to wipe the plate clean, whilst the creamy rice with beef carpaccio deserves a monument. At the bar, for those who want to start with a little something to whet their appetite, there are irresistible tapas such as Eggs with crystal prawns, Puff pastry with quince and cecina or Octopus skewers.
But to talk of Maracaibo is also to talk of wine. Hernando has been involved in the world of wine for years and has turned this passion into one of the restaurant’s key distinguishing features. The restaurant boasts an extensive wine cellar with hundreds of national and international wines, carefully selected to complement each dish. Added to this is a deeply personal project: Pago El Almendro, the family winery where he produces his own wines in the D.O.P. Valtiendas, one of the most unique appellations in Castile and León and the smallest in Spain, with three exceptional wines: Evolet (which received 91 points in Parker’s *The Wine Advocate* guide last year), Vivencias (93 points for the 2021 vintage) and Sin Vivir (another 93 points for the 2023 vintage).
This holistic approach – chef, sommelier and winemaker – transforms every meal into an experience where food and wine interact naturally, always with the aim of delighting the diner. Jessi Pulido, his business partner and life partner, also plays a key role in this, working alongside him to make us feel right at home.
A restaurant steeped in history
Casa Silvano Maracaibo opened its doors in January 1972, when Silvano Hernando and Angelita Torrego decided to realise their dream of opening their own restaurant. After a decade working at the Hogar del Productor in Segovia, Silvano took the plunge and, together with Angelita, set up shop in a small premises next to the coach station. That modest eatery, with a bar and a dining room serving the great classics of Segovian cuisine, grew steadily thanks to hard work, a warm welcome and a respect for the ingredients, eventually becoming one of the city’s most iconic establishments.
Casa Silvano Maracaibo is open in the summer from Tuesday to Sunday from 1.00 pm to 5.00 pm for lunch; and for dinner, on Fridays and Saturdays from 8.00 pm to 11.00 pm. The restaurant features a spacious bar area, perfect for enjoying tapas, small plates and up to 50 wines by the glass in a more informal setting, as well as an elegant main dining room with capacity for 60 guests and a private dining room for around 25 people, ideal for family gatherings, celebrations or business meetings. The average bill for à la carte dining is €50; at the bar, tapas start from €4.50, and there is a Tasting Menu (€70) for those wishing to take a proper tour of some of the restaurant’s most signature flavours. The restaurant also organises unmissable themed events and set menus throughout the year, featuring seasonal produce such as truffles, mushrooms and caviar.
Source: AIRES NEWS Comunicación