EL SALVADOR

A jewel you must discover

Text: Javier Gutiérrez
Photographers: Javier Gutiérrez / Cardinalia Comunicación | Óscar Espinosa | Roy Kings | Raquel Mogado | Elena Berd

With an area of just over twenty thousand square kilometres and a coastline of just over three hundred kilometres, this small Central American country offers tourists everything they could wish for. Cities steeped in history, small villages that retain the charm of times gone by, and archaeological parks that tell the story of how their inhabitants lived before the arrival of the Spanish.

From its capital San Salvador with its old town, through the interesting cultural and historical legacy of cities such as Suchitoto, to towns such as Juayúa with its gastronomic festival that fills the streets with delicious smells every weekend, or Ataco, which stands out for its urban art, both on the Ruta de las Flores (Flower Route), everything in El Salvador is captivating.

As well as the pre-Columbian remains located in the departments of La Libertad, Santa Ana and San Salvador, with the ruins of Joya de Cerén as one of the most important and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

But without a doubt, it is the people who leave an indelible impression; they are kind and possess a warmth that you will find in few other places.

Last November, I travelled to the country for the first edition of El Salvador Travel Market, and I must say that I discovered a surprising country with much to offer and, above all, a charming place. I visited cities, admired some of their natural spaces, climbed volcanoes, and enjoyed the atmosphere of their beaches. I returned with a suitcase full of stories to tell, but I realised that I couldn’t fit everything into one article, so for now I’ll write about some of the cities and archaeological sites and leave nature, volcanoes and coastlines for another instalment.

The historic centre of San Salvador

San Salvador, at the foot of a volcano

With the impressive image of the Quezaltepec volcano behind it, the historic centre stands out in the Salvadoran capital. Here you will find Plaza de la Libertad, one of the city’s most emblematic public spaces, commemorating Central American independence. Presided over by the Monument to the Founding Fathers, its construction marked the beginning of the capital’s expansion in the mid-16th century.

The three most representative buildings in the city are concentrated in the neighbouring Plaza de Gerardo Barrios: the National Palace, the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Library of El Salvador.

Gerardo Barrios Square

The National Palace is a political and cultural symbol of the country. Recently restored, it was inaugurated in 1911 and is currently the venue for cultural events and diplomatic meetings. It stands out for its one hundred rooms and four iconic lounges: Red, Pink, Yellow and Blue.

National Palace

The Metropolitan Cathedral represents the faith, history, and resilience of the Salvadoran people. Eclectic in style with Byzantine and Roman influences, this is the resting place of Saint Óscar Arnulfo Romero, a key figure in the contemporary history of El Salvador, celebrated for preaching in favour of human rights.

The latest of these buildings, and also the most modern, is the National Library of El Salvador, whose inauguration in 2023 marked a milestone in the transformation of the city’s historic centre. More than just a library, it is a state-of-the-art cultural and educational centre created with the aim of promoting access to knowledge and citizen participation, offering inclusive spaces and modernising the concept of libraries in the country, making it one of the most modern in Latin America.

National Library of El Salvador

Very close by is the National Theatre. Built in 1911 and designed by French architect Daniel Beylard, it was conceived in an eclectic style that blends elements of the French Renaissance, Rococo and Art Nouveau.

National Theatre

Also nearby, El Rosario Church is an architectural gem of the 20th century, featuring a modernist and brutalist design. The multicoloured abstract stained glass windows stand out, acquiring a superior beauty with the warm tones of the sunset.

When night falls, the meeting point for the capital’s residents is the Gran Zona Rosa, in the Colonia de San Benito neighbourhood, where there are a large number of restaurants, bars, cafés and nightclubs, as well as accommodation. During the day, shopping centres and exclusive shops coexist with spaces dedicated to culture, such as the El Salvador Art Museum and the Presidente Theatre.

Suchitoto, the first capital of El Salvador

We left the capital to discover and fall head over heels for an unforgettable town: Suchitoto.

Located in the Cuscatlán mountains, Suchitoto, which translates from Nahuatl as “place of birds and flowers”, was the country’s first capital back in 1528. From its glorious colonial past, it still retains its cultural and historical wealth. Walking through its cobbled streets took me on a subtle journey into the past, where I discovered beautiful corners adorned with picturesque houses with tiled roofs and beautiful balconies.

Suchitoto is a lively city, as can be seen every day when walking through its streets, a fact that becomes even more apparent with the arrival of its major cultural events: the International Art and Culture Festival in February, the Corn Festival in August and the Suchitoto International Film Festival in November.

The colonial atmosphere can be felt in every street of Suchitoto

Before leaving the city, I couldn’t resist visiting its most emblematic sites: the Central Square with the Church of Santa Lucia, the House Museum of D. Alejandro Cotto, home of Salvadoran writer and filmmaker Alejandro Cotto, and the Hacienda la Bermuda and Ciudad Vieja, a place of great historical and cultural importance.

Outside the town, the artificial lake Suchitlán, created in 1973, the Los Tercios waterfall located in the Las Ánimas ravine, and the Guazapa volcano, mostly covered by a dry tropical forest, are other pleasant surprises in the city.

Church of Saint Lucia

Suchitoto is also synonymous with attractive and interesting activities. At Casa de la Abuela, I learned how to make pupusas, one of the typical dishes of Salvadoran cuisine, and then enjoyed eating them. This colonial-style Petit Hotel also boasts the city’s first coffee shop and gift shop.

Taller Pájaro Flor is an association formed by six women from different communities who are single mothers or who lost their husbands in the civil war, as is the case of our hostess, who, in addition to being widowed, was forcibly recruited, received military training, and was forced to carry out communication tasks during such a tragic episode in Salvadoran history. Visitors learn the technique of dyeing fabrics with indigo here, and when the activity is over, they take home the garment they have made.

Pájaro Flor Workshop, dyed with indigo

There is also a wide range of hotels in Suchitoto, and one of the options offered by the town is the Hotel Boutique Los Almendros de San Lorenzo. Located in an old house that is over two hundred years old, upon entering its doors we arrive at what they themselves call an ‘Eden of Serenity’ with its courtyards full of plants, the freshness of its water fountains, its corridors with wooden columns and an exclusive decoration that combines antiques and modern art.

When it comes to dining, the perfect choice is the Donde Polo restaurant, where you are guaranteed to enjoy delicious culinary offerings accompanied by incredible views of Lake Suchitlán.

The history of El Salvador through its archaeological Parks

In El Salvador, history can be discovered by visiting its archaeological parks, which bear witness to the passage of the Maya, Pipil and Lenca civilisations through these lands. They left behind pyramids, indigo workshops and villages that show what daily life was like for the inhabitants of Mesoamerica. Of all the sites scattered throughout the country, five are considered archaeological parks, while the rest are archaeological sites, all of which form part of the Archaeological Route.

As its name suggests, the Joya de Cerén Archaeological Park is the country’s most precious asset in terms of archaeological sites. Located in the Zapotitán Valley, in the department of La Libertad, it is an icon of pre-Hispanic culture that shows what daily life was like for the Maya more than 1,500 years ago. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993, it is known as ‘the Pompeii of America’ and was buried by the eruption of the Loma Caldera volcano around 650 AD, which left the structures and archaeological remains intact and in good condition. It is interesting to note that the farmers in the new village of Cerén use techniques similar to those of the ancient settlers.

Joya de Cerén Archaeological Park

The other four archaeological parks that enrich the experience of travelling to El Salvador are San Andrés, El Tazumal, Cihuatán, and Casa Blanca.

The San Andrés Archaeological Park, also located in the department of La Libertad, is one of the largest pre-Hispanic centres in El Salvador. The regional capital between 600 and 900 AD, it covered around two hundred hectares and was a large monumental centre surrounded by a large residential area. It is believed that San Andrés ruled over the Zapotitán Valley and some neighbouring areas such as the Las Hamacas Valley, now San Salvador.

A ball court, temples, and a water drainage system are some of the Mayan structures that can be seen at the El Tazumal Archaeological Park, located in the district of Santa Ana. The magnificent stele of Tazumal was found here, measuring 2.65 metres high and 1.16 metres wide.

El Tazumal Archaeological Park

Located in the department of San Salvador, the Cihuatán Archaeological Park was a monumental Mayan centre with pyramids and platforms, walls, a palace and other structures. You can visit the nature trail and the museum, which displays pottery and other archaeological finds from the area.

We conclude at the Casa Blanca Archaeological Park located in the department of Santa Ana. It has a ceremonial centre, an indigo workshop where the different dyeing methods and materials are displayed, and a museum where the only stele with Mayan writing known in El Salvador is exhibited, with almost the entire text erased, a fact that does not diminish its historical importance.

El Salvador Travel Market (ESTM)

Last November, El Salvador hosted the first edition of this event, which proved to be a resounding success. This international tourism event was held at the InterContinental Real San Salvador in the capital, bringing together leading buyers and representatives from the sector from Europe and America, as well as specialist journalists, to learn about what El Salvador has to offer tourists.

With institutional backing from El Salvador’s Ministry of Tourism, CORSATUR, and the Salvadoran Chamber of Tourism, as well as support from strategic partners in the aviation and hospitality sectors, ESTM 2025 is establishing itself as a key platform for strengthening El Salvador’s presence in the international market, projecting an image of an emerging, competitive destination full of potential.

But this is only the beginning. With ESTM 2025, El Salvador reaffirms its commitment to continue working on the development of sustainable tourism products, innovative experiences, and a diversified portfolio that meets the expectations of the modern traveller.

After four decades in which violence took over the streets of this beautiful Central American country, first with the Civil War and then with gangs, El Salvador has awakened from that nightmare. In just a few years, the change that has taken place is surprising and exciting, restoring the vitality of any city and improving the confidence of Salvadorans who view the future with hope. You only have to stroll through its streets or visit the historic centre of San Salvador at night, something unthinkable a few years ago, to discover the excitement of the people in their smiles. And, of course, they also welcome tourists, whom they receive with their characteristic kindness.

The data deceives us, telling us that in the last five years El Salvador has seen an increase of nearly 90% in tourist arrivals, positioning itself as the second fastest growing country in the world in this sector, behind only Qatar.

What tourists find when they visit El Salvador is a perfect destination for those who want to discover a country that is authentic in its customs and interactions, and one with enormous potential that we are delighted to share with all our readers.

 

https://elsalvador.travel/esp/en/

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Texto: Javier Gutiérrez
Fotografías: Javier Gutiérrez / Cardinalia Comunicación | Óscar Espinosa | Roy Kings | Raquel Mogado | Elena Berd