- Overlooking Las Ventas, this Madrid tavern with a southern accent pays homage to the popular dishes—oxtail, pig’s ear, tripe, Russian salad, sweetbreads, cold cuts…—that surround this celebration and are prepared with such skill and tradition that they keep you coming back for more.
- To enjoy them, a warm and bucolic atmosphere, decorated with wicker baskets overflowing with plants, jars of preserves and a few details reminiscent of the nearby square, welcomes all kinds of visitors and encourages applause on every visit: whether for each recipe that comes out of the kitchen or for the live music that plays on Thursday to Saturday afternoons.
Casa Toro (Julio Camba, 5. Madrid. Tel. 676 74 52 93) is the new must-visit for lovers of good – very good – simple cuisine, also known as comfort food; for families and friends; for dates and business meetings; for bullfighting fans and non-fans alike… because, although it has one of the most beautiful and privileged views of the Las Ventas bullring, it is now a cosy, warm and relaxed space for any occasion, especially for those looking to have a good time, because from the torreznos (fried pork rinds) to the singing, everything here has duende (magic).
The project bears the signature of César Molero, a restaurateur with skill, heart and vision, who also created the nearby El Tentadero. He also learned everything he knows about hospitality, which is no small feat, alongside his parents in the area. He also learned how to get to know and treat his customers and the people around him, which is undoubtedly one of his greatest virtues. En Casa Toro, César siempre está en el comedor, prestando atención a cada detalle y asegurándose de que todos se sientan como en casa. That warmth is noticeable: in the atmosphere, in the service and in the rhythm of a space that vibrates with dishes, laughter and clapping. Fran Porras is in charge of the kitchen. With roots in Extremadura and Cordoba, he studied at the Casa de Campo Hospitality School and practically built the Sibarius gastrobar in Granada from scratch. And was a disciple of Luis Arévalo at Kena, where he met his classmate Álex Marugán, who has helped him by advising on the interesting menu of this new space, a must for lovers of well-made traditional cuisine, which excites without artifice.
His proposal – with the soul of the south and the heart of Madrid – is not so much risky as it is a winner from the moment you start reading any of its sections, because they all appeal to the appetite; and it ends up winning you over thanks to its careful and original execution. A good summary can be found in the “Especialidades Casa Toro” (Casa Toro specialities): Russian salad with garlic prawns; “Campeones de Madrid” Torreznos; and scrambled eggs with oxtail crumbs are the only three reasons you need to visit for the first time, and to return many more times.
The first of these recipes is made with fresh white prawn tails, homemade mayonnaise and garlic prawn sauce on top. The latter won the title of Best Torrezno in Madrid in 2025 at El Tentadero and are repeating the recipe here. Every bite is tender, flavourful, with a crispy crust… And the third dish is the perfect combination of the dish that everyone wants at the centre of the table, scrambled eggs, with another of the stars of the menu: the traditional Rabo de Toro Casa Toribio stew, as a tribute to this legendary restaurant that is now gone. When you try them, there are only two options: either order more so you don’t have to share them, or go straight to the main course, which also comes with delicious crispy chips. The secret to oxtail stew is that it is finished in the oven for 12 hours, resulting in a tender dish where the meat falls off the bone. And yes, you have to dip your bread in the delicious olive oil sauce.
Among the classic offal dishes, don’t miss the lamb sweetbreads, which are served here confit; or the spectacular ear lingotes with spicy sauce, which are first cooked and then fried in small cubes to achieve a crispy exterior and tender interior, accompanied by thin slices of collagen that are more addictive than sunflower seeds. This version finally brings together all those who like their food very crispy off the grill and those who prefer it cooked through and juicy. The dilemma is over. And by the way, this is also a problem for many coeliacs who are keen on these offal dishes because here they are gluten-free (with an exclusive deep fryer), like so many other dishes on the extensive menu.
The fish and seafood section always boasts fresh, high-quality items: from Fine de Claire oysters, Andalusian-style squid, grilled turbot emulsified with a tasty Lourdes water, or the daring grilled octopus salad with citrus, soy and sherry vinegar. Even if they don’t have the chef’s touch, there’s no denying the quality of their “Chacinas y laterío” (cold cuts and cured meats): Cantabrian anchovies, pickled mussels, the essential Gildas, and Blázquez Iberian ham or pork loin are perfect for whetting your appetite. To accompany your meal, there is a short wine list featuring different designations of origin, several sherries, La Dolores vermouth, or a perfectly poured glass of Águila beer, which is always a safe bet in a traditional Andalusian tavern like this one. Among the desserts, to go out with a bang, there is Torrija with orujo cream and orange and flambéed sabayon with toasted butter ice cream; and as an alternative, cheesecakes, pistachio or chocolate cakes, rice pudding, ice cream or a carefully selected cheese board.
"El duende" and the atmosphere
So far, we have found many reasons to visit Casa Toro, but we haven’t revealed them all yet. From Thursday to Saturday, the experience comes alive with live music: flamenco, rumba, roguish covers and plenty of art in the main room, presided over by a large mural ‘engraved in fire’, which includes a nod to Águila beer, and clapping accompanies the beat as diners toast among wicker baskets, preserving jars and flowers.
The interior design, by Néstor Marcos Architecture, reinterprets the traditional tavern in a contemporary style. The idea was to transfer the warmth and atmosphere of Madrid’s traditional eateries to a contemporary setting, where each material and texture interacts with the history of the neighbourhood and the energy of Las Ventas square. Thus, marble, cream and bottle green glazed tiles are interspersed with antique murals and natural woods that combine with plant elements, baskets and everyday objects that evoke craftsmanship. All this under warm, targeted lighting that highlights the nuances of every corner and accompanies the rhythm of day and night. Néstor ‘wanted Casa Toro to breathe authenticity: to feel Madrilenian in its materials, flamenco in its soul and contemporary in its lighting. A tavern that is equally enjoyable by day or night, designed so that every visit is different because it is a living tavern’.
Casa Toro is open every day of the week from 12.30pm to 1am, and on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, when the atmosphere is livened up by live music, until 2am. There is a reduced menu outside of lunch and dinner hours, with cold cuts, cured meats and almost all of the house specialities available for afternoon snacks.
It can seat up to 180 people, most of them at comfortable high tables scattered throughout the premises, some attached to the bar, and it is advisable to book in advance for evenings, especially if there is a bullfighting event. The average bill is €35-40, and there are set menus for groups starting at €45. Thanks to its layout, it is perfect for hosting both small and large celebrations.
Source: AIRES NEWS Comunicación