- Few establishments can boast such a clear philosophy. The kitchen at Restaurante Gamberro (1 Repsol Sun and recommended in the Michelin Guide) serves only dishes prepared in-house (which is why, for example, there is no bread).
- They are now taking this commitment a step further by extending it to their cellar, where they produce, from scratch, five vermouths (Solar, Fuego, Sangre, Negro and Aragón), each with a distinct profile yet sharing the same ethos: taking a well-known classic and breathing new life into it without losing its essence.
- In the kitchen, meanwhile, there is a constant focus on research and development to create the new autumn dishes.
Every sauce. Every dough. Even the flavoured chocolate bars, whose flavours change almost weekly. At Gamberro restaurant, an essential landmark of creative Aragonese haute cuisine, everything is handmade and springs from the mind of chef Franchesko Vera and his team, to be developed in their kitchen and, from there, served in the dining room. They even prepare their own ferments and vinegars. So the next step was a natural one, especially with Julio Canales, an up-and-coming sommelier, on the team – someone perfectly in tune with Vera and Flor García, the other half of the creative and sentimental duo behind the venue. That is why they have launched their first collection of artisanal vermouths, made by themselves (6 euros a glass), which can only be sampled at their restaurant, as part of the liquid experience that accompanies this menu-free venue, where a single 17-course tasting menu is offered for 80 euros. Incidentally, the kitchen is already preparing the venue’s new autumn dishes, exploring ingredients and techniques to continue surprising diners.
There are five very different types of vermouth, yet they share the same DNA and a common approach to cuisine. Just as, in their cooking, they take familiar elements and work with them to create something new and fresh whilst preserving the essence, they have followed this same path with the vermouths. The Solar vermouth is a citrusy, fresh and aromatic version of this fortified wine; Fuego incorporates heat and spices. Sangre, meanwhile, centres on red berries and has a fruitier character. Negro, which is made with coffee, features toasty and bitter notes. Aragón is the flagship, a successful combination of rosemary and fennel resulting in a vermouth with a herbal and aniseed profile that is hugely popular, and which draws inspiration from the Aragonese countryside, where these aromatic herbs are part of the collective imagination.
Vermouths made from scratch at home
As Gamberro’s young sommelier, Julio Canales, explains, the venue’s obsession with producing everything in-house has led them to make their ‘mother’ vermouth from scratch, so as to be able to control the entire process, following a few months of trials with a homemade drink, tailored to the venue’s taste but prepared off-site.
All are macerated in 5-litre glass demijohns, with maceration periods ranging from five to seven days, whilst others are shorter (as in the case of ‘Aragón’ and ‘Fuego’), requiring just 24 or 48 hours due to the potency of the botanicals used.
The process is so artisanal that even the syrups used to regulate the sweetness of the vermouths, such as elderflower syrup, are home-grown.
Homemade vermouths for a city where the aperitif is a way of life
It is well known that vermouth is enjoying a resurgence. But in Zaragoza, it has always been this way. The capital of Aragon boasts a very long-standing tradition surrounding this drink, accompanied by tapas and pinchos. At Gamberro, in fact, one of its most popular snacks is the ‘Guardia Civil 2.0’, a highly personal take on this classic vermouth sandwich filled with sardines, gherkins, tomatoes and piquillo peppers. In recent years, moreover, in the Zaragoza area small producers have emerged who craft signature vermouths, which has generated significant interest amongst consumers and food enthusiasts. So it was only natural that the innovative team at Restaurante Gamberro would embrace this trend, but from their own culinary perspective.
For Julio Canales, sommelier at Restaurante Gamberro, ‘the fact that we make our own vermouths is something that fits naturally into our concept. We specialise in signature cuisine that blends local produce with ingredients and influences from around the world, and our vermouths follow that same concept, but in a simpler, more recognisable form, whilst also being emotionally linked to the city’s cultural fabric – where vermouth is a veritable ritual – and to our own cuisine, in which we work with herbal, fruity and spicy notes”.
For this reason, and as Canales explains, these five varieties are perfect for complementing the entire Gamberro experience. “The vermouths work brilliantly as a starter, with our snacks (including the aforementioned ‘Guardia Civil 2.0’, the brain fritter, the hugely popular Thai garlic prawn croquette, etc.) or as an accompaniment to the main courses on our ever-changing blind menu.”
A constantly evolving wine cellar
The wine cellar at Restaurante Gamberro, overseen by Julio Canales and Flor García, is one of the venue’s standout features. Naturally curious, and with an excellent network of suppliers and producers they have cultivated over the 11 years the venue has been in operation, they have managed to build up an interesting selection of local, regional, national and international wines, as well as spirits. For several months now, a wine pairing selected by the sommelier to accompany the menu has been on offer; this costs 60 euros per person, comprises eight glasses and is only available for a full table.
About GAMBERRO
Restaurante Gamberro (1 Repsol Sun and recommended in the Michelin Guide) is a restaurant with a great deal of character in Zaragoza which, after eleven years of steady growth, has become a benchmark for the finest creative cuisine not only in Aragon but also in Spain. Restaurante Gamberro is the personal project of Franchesko Vera (chef) and Flor García (front of house), a perfect professional and romantic partnership. Together, they have turned their restaurant in the centre of Zaragoza into a mecca for lovers of fine dining. Their secret? A highly personal approach to cooking that takes the form of a unique 17-course tasting menu (80 euros), with many of the dishes coming and going frequently to reflect the seasons. Their cuisine is centred on ingredients, technique and concept. Together with her team, Vera applies these principles in a contemporary way, whilst never forgetting the origins of each ingredient. All this is done with a distinctively personal touch, reflecting a fondness for Aragonese recipes and ingredients, a taste for fusion with Asian and Latin American flavours, great elegance and a touch of humour.
Source: FABRA Comunicación