- The Fernández family, led by Paco and his children Fran and Maca – the fourth and fifth generations respectively – has spent over a century perfecting bread that is a hit with both households and the country’s top chefs. These are @panesconalma sourdough loaves, ‘alive’, which smell and taste of tradition.
- Every day they bake over 40 varieties, and if there’s one that’s a must-have in orders these days – they offer a home delivery service – it’s their spectacular brioche in a loaf tin, ideal for torrijas. Paco points out that “it’s perfect for soaking in milk and pan-frying with a little butter and sugar to caramelise”.
- It is precisely this bread that has led us to fall head over heels for the different versions served in a host of restaurants across Madrid and other regions. You simply must go and try them at El Lince, Inclán Brutal Bar, Ponzano, La Bechamel, La Cocina de Juanjo… to name but a few.
There are recipes that take us back to our childhood just by closing our eyes. The aroma of warm milk with cinnamon and lemon. The sound of the bread as it’s dipped in. The slow browning in the frying pan over the butter. Torrija isn’t just a dessert; it’s memory, tradition and home. But the success of any great torrija doesn’t lie in the infusion or how it’s finished off. It starts with the bread… and when we think of one that’s just right, we think of Viena La Baguette (Puerto de Tornavacas, 5. Leganés, Madrid. Tel. 91 560 09 22).
Viena La Baguette was founded in 1907, and so the Fernández family has been winning people over for 119 years with their irresistible ‘Panes con Alma’ (Bread with Soul). At the helm of the business are Paco and his children Fran and Maca – the 4th and 5th generations respectively – who bake artisan sourdough breads – just as it should be and just as they’ve always done – ‘living’ breads that are delivered to private homes on request and are also served in some of the country’s most prestigious restaurants.
At this time of year, the Vigilia stew and torrijas are a staple on the table, and as a proper homemade dessert, the most traditional thing to do is to put on an apron and make them yourself. Grandmothers used to make use of the day-old bread and soak it in milk, but the 21st-century gourmet version is made with brioche bread in a sliced bread from Viena La Baguette, which is naturally very soft, and the result is exquisite, as all the chefs who use it well know… With this ingredient, half the work is done to achieve a top-notch dessert, because, according to Paco Fernández, “the key is that the bread has a good crumb—consistent, dense—and soaks up the liquid without breaking, so it’s moist; the more milk it absorbs, the better. Our loaf-style brioche,‘ he says, ’is ideal for soaking and then grilling with a little butter and sugar to caramelise it; it needs nothing else“.
Where can you find the best torrijas made with La Baguette Vienna bread?
For those who prefer to enjoy them rather than make them, there’s a guaranteed route to quality, because many of the best ones currently served in restaurants in Madrid (and elsewhere across Spain) are made with Viena La Baguette brioche, which is perfectly balanced, with just the right amount of sugar and plenty of butter – always French or Belgian. Because when a chef wants their torrija to be unforgettable, they know that the base is everything. So, at this time of year, hundreds of special loaves leave the bakery to be transformed into that sweet treat that marks the calendar and lingers at the table…
It’s torrijas season, and they’re certainly not missing from the menus at…
- Arrocería Balear (Pozuelo). Their version is crispy on the outside, moist on the inside, drizzled with warm caramel and topped with a scoop of ice cream.
- Asador Las Esparteras (Covarrubias del Monte, Toledo). At this great grill house at km 47 of the Extremadura motorway, famous for its lamb and suckling pig, they serve a classic grilled torrija with vanilla ice cream.
- Casa Roque (Central Madrid), a small, new-to-Calle-la-Palma establishment serving simple, unpretentious Spanish cuisine with an Argentine twist, where they also fuse desserts: mixed Torrija with cream and dulce de leche.
- Cokima (Argüelles), where the international twist that characterises it is reflected even in its Torrija with a dulce de leche and caramel centre.
El 7 de Sillerías (Cáceres). Quality and excellent service are the hallmarks of Paco Gómez’s establishment, offering neo-rural cuisine in the heart of Trujillo and a Torrija with mascarpone from Lourdes for dessert that is not to be missed.
El Lince (Chamartín and Chueca) by Javi Estévez, where, amidst tradition and authenticity, you’ll find a brioche torrija with lemon ice cream.
- El Toque (Majadahonda). Traditional market-fresh cuisine with modern fusion touches: Milk-soaked French toast with dulce de leche ice cream.
- Grupo Rosi la Loca World will be serving Sol’s best torrija from 27 March to 5 April at its restaurants: Rosi la Loca, Inclán Brutal Bar, Chic by Rosi La Loca, Bestial by Rosi La Loca, Boom Boom Chiao and Lovo Bar. This limited edition features a torrija made from artisan brioche that has been pre-toasted, rehydrated in a chamber for 24 hours and finished with an infused cream thickened at 85°C to achieve a glossy texture and stability. The caramelised finish adds a crunchy contrast and, as the finishing touch, Sandro Desii’s Mediterranean pine ice cream.
- La Bechamel (Madrid and Albacete), Juan Monteagudo’s new venture, features a menu rooted in Albacete’s culinary traditions, with a distinctive and playful twist; however, its torrija – the star of the desserts – is authentically traditional and comforting.
- La Cocina de Juanjo (Alcobendas), Juanjo López’s latest venture, where he offers cuisine inspired by memories, 21st-century stews, the finest ingredients, and of course, the best bread! On the menu, La Torrija and its ice cream.
- Martín Tostón (Barrio Salamanca) is the Hevia family’s well-stocked restaurant and the iconic Bar H, which wins over diners with its carefully selected charcuterie and culinary classics. Among the desserts, Brioche torrija with custard and butter ice cream.
- Mayser (Ciudad Lineal) has been upholding tradition for 20 years, and their torrijas are just like their grandmother’s, but made with brioche from La Baguette.
- Poncio (Retiro, Madrid), the restaurant of Willy Moya’s dreams—who loves playful cuisine and creating unforgettable moments—also has a small tapas bar and an unmissable Torrija glazed in bitter orange and served with vanilla ice cream.
- Ponzano (Chamberí) is Paco García’s eatery, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year and never misses out on serving the Potaje de Vigila or its classic torrija every Easter.
- Savaina (Pozuelo) serves seasonal produce accompanied by an enticing fusion of Asian and Latin American cuisines. The must-try dessert is the Vermouth-soaked French toast with crème brûlée.
At Viena La Baguette, the bread used for torrija—whether for the hospitality industry or for private customers (yes, it’s the same)—is crafted with the same patience as that which goes into creating a fond memory. As well as the spectacular brioche (€13.25 per loaf weighing 1.2–1.3 kg) used in all the recipes on this mouth-watering list, they also make a special loaf for torrijas for €8.75. They offer home delivery in Madrid for their @panesconalma on orders over €15. Simply call 91 560 09 22 in the morning, order your favourites – their full range can be viewed on their social media – and wait for them at home the following day between 9:00 and 14:00. For private deliveries outside Madrid, please enquire by telephone.
Source: AIRES NEWS Comunicación